In the summer of 2022, I embarked on an incredible adventure, hiking a significant portion of the GR5 trail through the French Alps, from Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) to the Mediterranean Sea. This section is also famously known as the Grande Traversée des Alpes (GTA).
For context, the complete GR5 is a vast long-distance walking trail that begins in the Hook of Holland, on the North Sea, and traverses Belgium, Luxembourg, France, and Switzerland. The entire route spans an impressive 2,290 km (1,420 miles).
The GRs (Sentiers de Grande Randonnée) are a renowned network of long-distance hiking trails found across Europe, particularly prominent in France.
The route : A Race Against Time
With just three weeks of holiday, my goal was to complete the French Alps section of the GR5, from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean. While most guides estimate this part takes around 30 to 35 days, I aimed to push my daily mileage significantly, hoping to finish in a brisk 18 days. This ambitious schedule also factored in a three-day buffer before my return flight, just in case of any unforeseen delays or issues. This part of the GR5 is known as the Grande Traversée des Alpes.
Variants : Enhancing the Journey
While I largely followed the main GR5 route, I incorporated a few variants to explore areas that particularly captivated me:
Starting Point: I began my hike in Saint-Gingolph. The alternative start from Thonon-les-Bains adds an extra day, but offers a more gradual initial climb, which could be more beneficial for hikers with less training or more time. However, I opted for the steeper, shorter route.
Mont Blanc Panorama: After Col de Voza (between Les Houches and Les Contamines), I took a detour to Col du Tricot and the Chalets de Miage. This variant, though adding a 500-meter climb, rewards you with breathtaking views of Mont Blanc and features a unique Tibetan-style bridge over the Bionnassay river.
Vanoise National Park: Beyond Tignes, I veered right onto the GR55. This high-altitude route, often exceeding 2,700 meters, winds through the stunning Vanoise National Park. It passes alongside magnificent glaciers, and I was keen to spot some wildlife. This variant also shaves a day off the main GR5 route.
Mercantour and “Valley of Marvels”: To conclude my journey, instead of heading south to Nice from Saint-Dalmas-Valdeblore, I turned north into the Mercantour National Park. This variant, following the GR52, leads through the Mercantour Park and the fabled “Vallée des Merveilles.” I anticipated this would be the highlight of my hike, and it certainly did not disappoint. This route culminates in Menton, rather than Nice, featuring a steep 10 km descent from Col du Berceau (1,090m) to the coast.
Packing Light : My hiking essentials
As an experienced day hiker, I prefer to keep my pack light and move comfortably and quickly. For daily hikes, I typically use a 5-10 liter backpack, carrying safety gear, water, food, camera, drone, and jackets, usually weighing around 4 kg. For the GR5, I aimed to keep my 45-liter backpack under 10 kg, and I utilized hiking poles to reduce strain on my legs.
| ITEM | Weight [g] | Quantity | Total weight [g] |
| short (Decathlon) | 99 | 1 | 99 |
| tshirt (Raidlight) | 120 | 1 | 120 |
| cap (Nike) | 69 | 1 | 69 |
| Sunglasses category 4 (Decathlon) | 30 | 1 | 30 |
| Socks (Decathlon) | 41 | 3 | 123 |
| Underwear (Decathon) | 31 | 3 | 93 |
| Trail running shoes (Nike Terra Kigger 7) | 600 | 1 | 600 |
| Hiking sticks (x2) | 500 | 1 | 500 |
The backpack : Minimalist Approach
My plan was to sleep in refuges and hotels along the way, relying on them for dinner and breakfast. I packed only snacks and picnics for daytime sustenance. A silk sleeping bag liner was sufficient for nights, as all refuges provide blankets. For emergencies, I carried a bivy bag and a compact sleeping bag. My 45-liter backpack proved ample, and I successfully kept its weight under 10 kilograms.
Backpack / safety / sleep – 2.7kg
| ITEM | Weight [g] | Quantity | Total weight [g] |
| Backpack (Trespass Twinpeak DLX 45L Backpack) | 1120 | 1 | 1120 |
| Sleeping bag (Decathlon) | 925 | 1 | 925 |
| Dry bag XL green (Exped) | 87 | 1 | 87 |
| Bivi bag | 126 | 1 | 126 |
| Headlamp (Petzl) | 78 | 1 | 78 |
| tooth brush + paste | 51 | 1 | 51 |
| passport + credit cards + cash (ensure you bring cash, only few places accept card payment) | 97 | 1 | 97 |
| medecine + face masque | 83 | 1 | 83 |
| Soap | 100 | 1 | 100 |
Clothes – 2.1kg
| ITEM | Weight [g] | Quantity | Total weight [g] |
| Gore tex jacket (Quechua) | 470 | 1 | 470 |
| Down jacket | 364 | 1 | 364 |
| Long sleeve t-shirt (Lafuma) | 166 | 1 | 166 |
| Gloves (Lowe Alpine) | 45 | 1 | 45 |
| Buff | 37 | 1 | 37 |
| Hat (Nike combat) | 27 | 1 | 27 |
| 1st layer long sleeves (Quechua) | 123 | 1 | 123 |
| Socks (trail decathlon) | 41 | 2 | 82 |
| Underwear (Decathon) | 31 | 2 | 62 |
| Rain trousers (Berghaus) | 364 | 1 | 364 |
| Trousers (Warehouse) | 310 | 1 | 310 |
Evening Clothes – 0.9kg
| ITEM | Weight [g] | Quantity | Weight [g] |
| Silk sleeping bag (Decathlon) | 115 | 1 | 115 |
| 1/4 microfibre towel (Decathlon) | 55 | 1 | 55 |
| Toilet paper | 23 | 1 | 23 |
| Light Jacket (Quechua) | 114 | 1 | 114 |
| 1st layer long sleeves (HH) | 141 | 1 | 141 |
| Trousers (Asics) | 175 | 1 | 175 |
| Underwear (NB) | 55 | 1 | 55 |
| Toe socks (Aonijie) | 39 | 1 | 39 |
| Flip flops | 225 | 1 | 225 |
Food / water – 2.6kg
| ITEM | Weight [g] | Quantity | Total weight [g] |
| bottle / filtre | 221 | 1 | 221 |
| electrolites (x10) | 100 | 1 | 100 |
| water | 1500 | 1 | 1500 |
| zip lock bag | 6 | 5 | 30 |
| pates de fruits | 27 | 10 | 270 |
| chocolate cereal bars | 33 | 5 | 165 |
| picnic | 300 | 1 | 300 |
| knife | 40 | 1 | 40 |
Books / Electronics – 1.6kg
| ITEM | Total weight [g] | Quantity | Total weight [g] |
| Book – topo guide #1 | 208 | 1 | 208 |
| Book – topo guide #2 | 203 | 1 | 203 |
| Book – topo guide #4 | 260 | 1 | 260 |
| Power bank 20,000mAh Adata + cables | 470 | 1 | 470 |
| Magnetic Camera stand (Joby) | 62 | 1 | 62 |
| Camera Samsung WB650 + batteries | 293 | 1 | 293 |
| Phone Samsung A20e | 141 | 1 | 141 |
In fact, my backpack typically weighed around 10 kilograms. On days with poor weather, when I wore more layers, the pack’s weight would drop to roughly 8.5 kilograms (though I rarely needed long sleeves or jackets during this particular hike).
I carried no spare change of clothes, opting to hand-wash my dirty items with soap each evening. They dried quickly, ensuring I had clean, dry clothes most mornings. I only packed two extra pairs of underwear and two extra pairs of socks.
Eight days into the hike, upon reaching Modane, I developed Shin Spints in my right leg. I promptly purchased anti-inflammatory cream and KT tape to provide support.
Later, in Briançon, I had to buy a needle and thread to repair my backpack straps, which were starting to fray – a crucial repair to ensure it lasted the final week.
The start : Trepidation and Determination
Choosing Saint-Gingolph as my starting point meant a steep ascent from the outset, but it saved me a day compared to starting in Thonon-les-Bains. While public transport access to Saint-Gingolph is slightly more challenging, I was fortunate to be driven to the trailhead.
At the beginning, a mix of excitement and apprehension filled me. I wasn’t sure if I could handle such a long hike. The stages outlined in guidebooks are typically much shorter, often involving around 8 hours of hiking. My planned stages, however, could stretch to 12 to 14 hours, and I worried about arriving too late at my accommodations each evening.
Booking Ahead: Navigating Peak Season
I hiked the GR5 in August, which is the busiest period in France, as many French people take their holidays between July 14th and August 15th. Consequently, I pre-booked my first nine nights of accommodation until August 15th:
1/ La Chapelle d’Abondance (Hotel La Joly)
2/ Refuge Chardonnière
3/ Refuge Moëde Anterne
4/ Les Contamines-Montjoie Refuge CAF
5/ Refuge de Balme Tarentaise
6/ Refuge d’entre Le Lac
7/ Refuge Col de la Vanoise
8/ Modane (Hotel de la Gare)
9/ Plampinet / Refuge La Cleida
While booking in advance offers security, it sacrifices flexibility for longer or shorter hiking days. For the remainder of my trip, I hoped for more availability, allowing me to book just a few days ahead.
A crucial lesson learned for future trips: the three main refuges in Mercantour National Park (Madone de Fenestre, Nice, and des Merveilles) are often booked months in advance. Keep this in mind when planning your own adventure!
Despite the initial stress, I knew that after a few days, I would settle into a rhythm, feeling more relaxed and confident on the trail.
The hike details are in the next pages:
Day 1 to 4 – Saint Gingolph to Les Contamines Montjoie
Day 5 to 8 – Les Contamines-Montjoie to Modane
Day 9 to 12 – Modane to Maljasset
Day 13 to 15 – Maljasset to Rimplas
Day 16 to 18 – Rimplas to Menton
GR5 – Conclusion